I had a lot of observations during this trip. Lots of food for thought. Below are some of my thoughts and reflections about this trip, the island, and its culture. It’s more wondering than criticism. Experience has taught me that things are the way they are for reasons, most of the time GOOD reasons. I like to understand the reasons, and so I think about “cause” a lot.
The people. Everyone was friendly, and I got the impression that it wasn’t just because they were paid to be. The entire island has a laid-back vibe about it. No one seems to be in a hurry to do anything, and everything happens on “island time”. Also, “hi” or “hello” as a greeting (or no greeting at all) doesn’t cut it on St. John. People expect some version of “how are you?” when you greet them. Now, this is one of the most banal things I think two people can say to each other in passing, but if you are ever on St. John, try it! The genuine smiles that erupt are totally worth it. They really care that you asked and each responds with their own version of “I’m good” or “I’m having a good day, how’s yours?” or something similar.
The atmosphere. I said there’s a laid-back vibe. I’m trying to account for it. I didn’t actually, you know, ASK anyone or anything; but since I didn’t and have to guess, I think it’s the heat. Nobody moves fast and I think it’s to conserve energy and not break out in a sweat. I know nothing of the particular physiology of being a dark-skinned person in a tropical climate, but such is most of the population and I can only imagine that average 85 degree heat in bright sunshine takes that much more of a toll on darker skin as far as heat absorption goes. And so they…everyone…move slowly. That’s a complete guess. Maybe they’re all just totally laid back!
The Taxis. The taxis aren’t like the ones in New York City. They’re not like an Uber which is just someone driving around in their own car offering rides. These are big trucks with benches on the back that can haul up to 20 people, depending on configuration. If you’re in a hurry, forget about it. In the “high season” of Winter I’m sure the taxis fill up just as fast as they empty and barely stop moving. But in the off season (now) they mill about like seagulls just hoping for a French fry (passenger) to come their way. Still, they are very organized and share the fares and are generally polite. But if you’re the first one who needs to go where you’re going, they’re going to wait around a few minutes longer and hope to scoop up another fare or two or three before taking off. Besides–if you’re in a hurry and you’re on St. John, you’re vacationing wrong!
The environment. “Paradise”. That’s what some call it. Our resort certainly fit that bill. Manicured grass, palm trees, white sand beaches, a large swimming pool, tennis, pickleball, disc golf, water sport rentals–all the trappings one expects if all one knows of “paradise” is what one sees on TV and in the movies. Our resort was all of that! The employees were there to serve us and they made sure we knew it without asking. If we wanted or needed something, we had only to pick up the phone and ask.
But off-resort? I have to admit I don’t really understand. There were some areas that were “nice” and well maintained. But that certainly wasn’t most of the island that we saw. Anything maintained by the Federal Government / National Park Service was very good. The businesses at Mongoose Landing and generally proximate to the ferry landing at Cruz Bay were good, but just “good”. And everywhere else? I don’t know how to describe it. I want to say “dump,” but I know that’s neither accurate nor fair. Think of a trailer park. Not the well-kept kind, but the kind where the trailers were parked there years or decades ago and have never left and have never been taken care of. Yard work is simply not done, probably because there are no real yards. Everything’s built into or on a hill, and this isn’t the deciduous New York State. Kentucky Bluegrass doesn’t grow here. It’s palm trees and scrub brush that looks like it would kill my weed whacker in under 20 minutes if I tried to use it. But whatever it is, no one seems to even bother trying to tame it. But that’s OK. It’s hardly fair for me to transfer my own preference for cut grass and curb appeal onto a place in which I do not live.
But curb appeal. Never mind the flora, can we talk about the junk and the general state of apparent disrepair evident, well, just about everywhere? It looks like about 60 or 70 years ago there was significant investment in housing and development on the island. But then the developers left and everything appears to have been deteriorating since then. Apart from the homes owned by the obviously affluent, the remainder of the island is covered in what I’ll call hovels. Junk is everywhere. Cars are abandoned by the roadside. Construction debris is everywhere. Ironically, there’s not much trash or garbage. But no one seems to be in charge of removing “things” from the island, and so they just sit where they are. The response to that observation is likely sheer cost. There are tons and tons of scrap metal littering the island in many forms. But it’s probably not profitable for anyone who peddles in scrap to get to the island, collect it all, and get it anywhere where it can be sold. And so it all just stays where it is. Still, you’d think even basic civic pride would have someone organize folks to collect it and pile it all in one place or something! (Afterthought: I’m sure getting walloped by hurricanes every so often doesn’t help this situation! 13 in the last 100 years, including Irma and Maria in 2017.)
But now we’re back to the climate and the notion of “paradise”. The climate probably keeps most people from being too active, as I’ve observed. It might also be what keeps people from organizing cleanup drives. It is also what keeps me from personally branding this place as a Paradise. For a fat man like me it’s just too damn hot! It’s not that I’m completely unfit. I do get some exercise and have a certain amount of stamina. But 85 degree heat and over 60 percent humidity? 5 minutes out in that with any activity at all and I have sweat running off my head and down my torso. It’s not fun, it’s not pleasant, and it’s certainly not paradise. Paradise to me would be somewhere with 70 degree days and low humidity where it feels hot in the direct sun, but you don’t even start to sweat if you’re in the shade.
I’m told that the temperatures in St. John get “down” into the 70s in the winter, when the natives whip out their sweatshirts and toques (we saw some for sale!). But that’s also the height of the tourist season, and I already know I never want to visit this place when that’s going on!
All in all I am glad to have experienced St. John specifically, and the Caribbean in general. It was something I’ve always wanted to do and this wedding gave us the impetus to do it. I want to be clear: we had a fantastic time and are very glad we went! I wouldn’t say “no” to going again some day. But I’m also not thinking of planning my next trip there anytime soon.
